Fashion history.Deconstructionism Miyake and Yamamoto

accepted that Japanese designers are trying not only to expand the boundaries of fashion, how to make them crystal clear.All the creativity born in Hiroshima Issey Miyake (., Born in 1935) seeks to answer a simple question: "What is fashion»

What he does in the first place, to name clothes, and sometimes it is simply impossible, and secondlyIt does not belong to either the West or East.After all, what looks like a spacesuit element may be a copy of the ceremonial dress of the samurai.

Passion Miyake - pleating and natural fibers.Carried away, he often deliberately removed from the original purpose of clothes and create costumes that, passing the podium, becoming museum pieces.Issey Miyake since childhood liked to draw.Having finished the Tokyo Academy of Arts, he moved to Paris and enrolled in school at the Syndicate of High Fashion.Incredibly talented young man first saw Guy Laroche, but Miyake studied in closer to him on the outlook Hubert de Givenchy.It is interesting that the art of haute couture

was not attracted: Issei opted willing to pay a ready-to-wear).Back in 1970 in Tokyo, he set up his own studio and began to cast on new materials and forms in an effort to transfer the tradition of the Japanese national costume in modern dress.

... By the way, it is suggested that women Issei silicone bust (not to be confused with silicone implants in the bust!), Inflatable polyurethane pants and pleated tunics interspersed with metallic threads.Then came the hollow nylon pants, designed for city life, and finally, the famous coats ...

His intricately draped dresses gowns reminiscent of Buddhist priests and samurai clothing.At the same time the body and branded "miyakievskaya" pleated jacket seems completely independent from each other.He says

«cut of Western clothing is focused on the body and cut the Japanese clothing - on the tissue."The beauty of his models is manifested not in the way it emphasizes the figure and how to move the fabric itself.It becomes clear that he belongs with the greatest attention to the search for new fabrics.

Miyake develops light, changeable things, resistant to washing, which correspond to today's mobile lifestyle.His model of "hiding" the body, but give him complete freedom.Like other prominent fashion designers, Japanese Miyake boldly experimenting with the volume of the body constantly changes its dimensions.He dresses his models in "anthers", more like umbrellas, "armor" made of bamboo, artfully "tattooed" body, playing the role of "second skin".

Miyake very versatile if it incredibly profitable commercial collection in 1994 "pleating, if you please!" Consisted of dresses, skirts and jumpers sculptural form of pleated fabrics of bright colors, it is not less successful financially collection 1999

"a piece of clothing" is exceptionally easy - all customers was offered a roll of knitted fabric from which everyone could cut himself anything - from T-shirts to a bikini or a pair of socks ....

Issei is actively cooperating with the theater, creating costumes for ballet and opera.For many years he successfully sells its own line of perfumes.

Since 1973, after the resounding success of his first collection of "East meets West", he twice a year with the same success shows in Paris his "creations".Its titled our colleagues more than once admiringly acknowledged that Issey Miyake shaping the future of fashion.

famous graduate of the Tokyo College "Bunka" designers, and now one of the leaders of the Japanese "wave", Yohji Yamamoto (p. 1943) (not to be confused with Kansai Yamamoto) actively promotes minimalism.It is a kind of trend in modern fashion, based on certain philosophical basis, with its origins in the Japanese national culture.Its essence - is the minimum form.

... By the way, the first success came to Yogi in 1977, when he was in Tokyo showed its collection, the basis of which was proposed by ... the men cut for women's clothing.After she was in Paris, Yamamoto "became famous» ...

Despite the asymmetry and the awkwardness of his models, things from Yamamoto's hit sensuality, comfort and state of peace.Creating clothes mainly in two colors (black and white), Yohji tries not to, to make it a "second skin", and to ensure that give the body a space for movement.At Yamamoto silhouettes are then sculpted, the fluid.To this end, the Japanese designer who is considered a master of the art of cutting, is the main characteristic of the tissue.

rigid fabric allows Yamamoto create angular cut, fluid - rounded, gently decaying.So Yohji Yamamoto became a cult figure in the world of haute couture, and it (and Rei Kawakubo) favorite black - the color of arrogance and humility, mysticism and asceticism has turned into a cult.

... By the way, in large part thanks to the Japanese designers deliberately give their clothes the incomplete features, traditions precise cut in the 2 nd half of the XX century are no longer perceived as "absolute good" and fashion designers began to comprehend the art of destruction forms, ie. E.deconstruction ...

it is a sobering effect on the Japanese model the world in England, America and France, with all its quirks and excesses.Their principles - asceticism and deconstruction.Their fabrics are not treated, they leave unfiled hem line.They do not chase multicolored, all colors and shades they prefer black.Japanese fashion baggy, oversized model.She wraps the body instead of his show, dress and humor, t. E. They are not doing what for centuries engaged Europeans.It is unique in that their novelty.