Fashion history.Gothic fashion

In the XII century, especially in France, romance dress, resembling rather the monastic robe, gradually replaced the clothes, closely adjacent to the figure and a graceful, which is mainly in the XIX century, finally gets the secular nature with all the ensuing consequences.In the XII century, especially in France, romance dress, resembling rather the monastic robe, gradually replaced the clothes, closely adjacent to the figure and a graceful, which is mainly in the XIX century, finally gets the secular nature with all the ensuing consequences.

Rough, nekroennaya on a piece of clothing the previous era, is replaced perfectly sew a dress made according to the laws of tailor's skill, the total cut is adapted to the shape of its owner.New types of matter, the thin cloth of Flanders and Italian origin, from which mainly sewed dresses at that time, gently fitting shape.They were cut easier and at the same time was so strong that it is possible to perform any drapery.

Some of these fabrics have changed the

color of the light.These new dress stitching began in the XIII century, according to some authors, the first in Italy, according to others - in France.These places were the cradle of knightly culture, which was an expression of aesthetic ideals and new, to reflect on women's and men's fashion.

Masculine ideal was not a brave fighter, dressed in military trousers and rough skin - now it was effeminate young man with long curly hair, decorated with flowers, and dressed like a woman.

Color kombinatsiitakzhe had their deep symbolic significance.Anyone who "served" the chosen lady, wearing her favorite color.Evidence of this "service lady" preserved not only in French literature, but also in the Czech Republic, for example, in a poem: "I want her to be right, to be worthy to approach the one that gives me joy and wears a dress of my color."The servants also adapted to the favorite colors of their masters, the appropriate color to express and friendly disposition.

combination of different colors allowed.The most fashionable color of the era was yellow, which was considered masculine.However, the guardians of morality and modesty sharply opposed it, as in the yellow color of the dress was quite invoice and luxury, in their opinion, corrupts people.

Gothic fashion with its adjoining dress typical formulation of the body and the way of wearing can be seen by looking at the monumental figures of saints and kings on the facades of cathedrals and portals, as well as artistic miniatures of medieval artists.

Changed clothes cut manifested itself primarily in the pattern of hoses and their connection with the shoulder.Closely oblegaya shoulder joint, the dress should be further lines of the body in a way that is clear, in fact, the body itself.Sleeves to the wrist sometimes expand, moving into long angles at the elbows, which are beautifully rounded and sometimes extend to the ground.

Vest and was replaced by a cut bodice, which was made possible thanks to sew the side seams and darts, makes the figure.To bodice was even more fitting, in the XIV century it was tightening the laces or fastened with a series of buttons.

buttons appear in the first half of the XIV century, when the dress is so closely adjacent that could barely move.Only then will the free blanket turned into a cut intricate dress and there was a final separation from the free antique tunic.Vest, even in the XIII century closed, begins to uncover the neck first, and later the chest, and the skirt was extended to the loop length, highlighting the hip.

Noble women over this adjacent dresses often worn more garments with sleeves or without them, with a large chest, which his cut and trim emphasizes the harmony of the waist, hips and the width of the plasticity of the chest.

It also belonged to the traditional clothing cloak sewn from cloth fabric and hemmed cloth of another color or fur.On his chest he fastened decorative AGRAF or regular clasp.During this period, it was still fashionable to pull the cloak over his head, as did once the Etruscans.

women covered head covers, which are made of subtle matter, they were very different and had their own symbolic meaning.For example, the seriousness of the moment and sadness emphasized not only dark clothes, but also the position of the curtain that is in this time of deep pull on the face

same celebration and fun - colorful paints and bedspreads in different ways to tie.

Curly hair fell to his shoulders while waving for men and women was common.Curling was performed using hot tongs or heated special dads, who were also the subject of ridicule for the guardians of morality who think perm greatest sin.

However, in poetry curled hair of unmarried girls, crowned with golden wreaths, sparkling tiaras and colorful flowers, enthusiastically sung.

Married women covered their heads with blankets expensive.In the XIV century were very popular hoods that adorned her head, like a halo, as mentioned in the chronicle of Limburg in 1389.

At the court of Wenceslas IV Czech medieval fashion, harmonious and elegant, achieved unprecedented prosperity and won over the French fashion, more ektsentrichnoy.

often in the paintings of artists of the time women are dressed in transparent, fitting sleeveless shirt that openly expose female figure, obtyagivaya her at the waist and chest.These shirts are similar to our current summer dresses or underwear, straps these shirts were made of another material, such as finishing and a wide belt at the waist, shifted to one side, usually was made of blue material.

The literature has repeatedly pointed out the analogy between the gothic fashion and architecture.And fashion is dominated by vertical lines: vertical ends of the upper arms, sharp cuff pahi, hats, stretched upward, and pointy shoes emphasized this trend.

Nor gothic clothing takes all the elements of the previous period, for example, coat, turned it in his own way, the veil, which was manufactured from new fabrics, and new features.

Romanesque fashion is still based on rubashkoobraznom, loose-fitting a cut.Gothic pattern clothing fully consistent with the human figure and often talk about it, that it is hard to beat.In this merit, first of all, tailors, who kept his secrets, and even at that time united in the shop, and gothic clothes and its production was transferred to the hands of men.