Fashion history.Gabrielle Chanel : she wore the twentieth century .( Part I)

childhood and early youth of the most famous modelersha XX century were not easy.She was born in a small town poorhouse provincial Savmur (Saumur).Her parents did not have their own homes and they moved the children all the time.His father, a small provincial medicine trader, after his wife's death from starvation, threw five children.None of the relatives did not want to leave the 12-year-old Gabriel at home, and the little girl was in the monastery shelter.The little girl was hard to believe that from her all refused, so she regularly hysterics, shouting another vospitannitsam: "I - not an orphan!Soon the pope will arrive and take me out of here! "The poor Gaby, only one of the attendees of courses seamstresses, went to school in dull gray uniforms, hearing taunts from classmates bogatyx.Indifference, lack of love, heavy youth left their mark on her character: the girl has become harmful and bile and vowed revenge.Many years later she realized her "revenge": her costumes sewn in the style of a stric

t uniform, conquered the whole world.She learned the art of survival.And most importantly - she learned to sew.After

Catholic guesthouse, which paid her grandfather, 20-year-old Gabriel (Bonheur) Chanel (1883-1971) began to work saleswoman in a haberdashery, and in the evenings to earn a third-singer in a cafe in the town of Moulins.For their performances on stage in the theater she herself sewed costumes and hats.Gabriel favorite songs were hits at the time, "Who has seen Coco in the Trocadero?" And "Ko Ko Ri Ko" - she often sang them as she was nicknamed Coco (in French -. Hen, chicken).

... By the way, much later, ashamed of its past, Gabriel told reporters that "chicken" called her father, who allegedly was crazy about his daughter ...

She wanted to move to Paris and become a famous singer.Great success on the stage it has reached a variety show, but at the Moulin met a young and very rich secular dandy Ethier-on Balsan.Very soon he offered an elegant and smart Coco to become a kept woman ....Gabriel wanted to break out of poverty, to leave the province and is already well known that for everything in life comes at a price, and did not break.She knew that it is necessary to organize life.Another such case might not turn up.

way, expensive courtesans were known to be in vogue.Their insane extravagance stimulate the continuous development of the luxury industry, rivalry spurred designers to find more and more new models suit ... Although lover and put Coco in his luxurious house, it soon became clear that in addition to her it still lives ... onevoluptuous mistress of Etienne.This lady did not miss an opportunity to show a brand new passion, who is the elder in the house.Under her influence Balsan while no one even imagined Coco as her next lover and did not give her a chance to make useful contacts.But the quirky mind Gabriel helped her find a way out of the peak situation.

Through an imposingly handsome Balsanom Coco still hit the aristocratic kpyg.It was his clothes (white men's shirt with a tie and breeches) it has become worn for horse riding.It was unusual, calling the manner of dress.Figure teenager, eyes and voice of a confident woman in her charm and taste of fairy - talked about her admiring men.All this has attracted attention.At Coco was not besieged by fans.

Coco Chanel, gifted artistry boundless energy, soon tired of the role of the living toys in male hands.In addition, Etienne did not differ generosity: do not give her the money, did not make gifts.Chanel, is not devoid of a business vein, he tried to express his ideas and tastes.And the year before World War I with the help of his new lover - a rich Englishman Arthur Kopel Combat, which has become tragic (because of his early death in 1919), the love of her long and turbulent life, she opened a business, starting with the production of hats.Then it was "business" organically evolved into a small studio fashion in the "summer capital" of France - at the prestigious resort of Deauville, where Parisians loved to spend their weekends.

Opening cabin was pure adventure, because before Chanel, no one knew it was just a miserable kept woman.But Coco knew perfectly well: it was her only chance to get rich, and to break up.And it worked like a curse.Soon, her business began to flourish.

it has got its own boutique in the fashionable resort town in Bear Ritz, and the Parisians who came to this resort "without anything" stand in line for bathing suits new model two years later: without any tinsel and ornaments, but very open.Very soon I learned all about Coco France.

can say that this war (during which she did not idle, doing tailoring for the Sisters of Mercy) has brought her luck, the practicality of her clothing perfectly consistent with the spirit of time.So little Gabriel turned into a shrewd business woman who has never looked back.

experienced in adolescence numerous humiliations and hiss not very feminine in character, Chanel perfectly mastered the art of charm and sooblaznyat wealthy and influential men who forgave her everything.She recognized the artistic bohemia, her friends began to Jean Cocteau and Serge Lifar, Pablo Picasso and Maurice Ravel.About it - one of the main heroines of the gossip of those years - said she was ruining their loved ones, there were rumors about the fabulous jewels, it received as a gift from Superbad lovers ...

However, falling in love, Chanel always completely surrendered to his feelings, butif she had to choose between work and feelings (fashion), it has seen a lot of the French heartland always chose the latter.So this time Garbiel again plunged into creativity.She loved to invent, to shock.Coco created the fashion, breaking all the rules of decency.Chanel has become the personification of the image of women of his time - "female waiter."She wore all that is offered to others.The poor girl, an orphan, she was horrified surrounding their "bad" manners - taught skinned society ladies sunbathing under the scorching rays of the sun (her bronze tan completely changed the concept of the female body beauty and spawned a fashion for sunbathing), I strolled along the beaches in the malepajamas and riding breeches riding in military, favorably emphasize the beauty of her beautiful shins.

Chanel first strongly obstrigla their gorgeous hair and made a short boyish haircut.She first took away almost all of them men nemudreny clothes, including pants.(This is not like men, but they had to accept.) She first created dnuhtsvetnye shoes with sexy open heel, decorated handbag handles in the form of gold-plated chains, interwoven with the fabric, invented a new object of the toilet - bag over his shoulder, then became a fixture in pyuboy wardrobewomen.

Coco kept repeating: "You can be different - homely or beautiful, but will never be chic if marry unkempt, in bad shoes, and even more so without the appropriate handbag!" She's the first openly declared: "Caring about beauty, it is necessaryto start with the heart and the soul, or no makeup will not help! ยป

she got away with it, because she was young and good of the new attraction, which has become the standard of beauty the beginning of XX century.It was the arrogance of a beautiful woman does not want to divert attention from his own person in the intricate outfits, and the belief that a new life in which there is no place artificial forms and piling up of details.One World was over, the other is in its infancy.